July 2006
Sights and Sounds at the Butchart Gardens on a Saturday Night
Saturday nights at the Butchart Gardens are truly amazing; in addition to viewing some spectacular display gardens at a National Historic Site, there are pockets of live entertainment spread throughout the property. As you wander the grounds, your ears drift from one musical venue to another. Then comes the fireworks : spinning, whirring, whistling and popping. It is more than your typical, shoot-in-the-air and pop-open-like-an-umbrella-type of fireworks. This is a light show to overload your senses. Figurines move and bursts of light shoot up, down and sideways. My favourite is the waterfall of fireworks pouring down into a pond below where the sparks seem to dance along the water’s edge. Imagine this with seating so close to the centre of it all that you feel the fireworks are raining down all over you.
Tip: go early and spend a few hours here; there is plenty to see, hear, taste and do and you’ll beat the lineups. Did you forget your blanket? They’ve got those too.
Sonora Resort
Last summer a girlfriend and I treated ourselves to a stay at the luxurious and remote Sonora Resort for the weekend. This georgeous resort is located on Sonora Island, off the north-east side of Vancouver Island. There is no regular ferry service to this island, and the area is remote with few visitors, save for the fishing and leisure boats that cruise the waters. We arrived by floatplane and were greeted by the friendly staff who instantly made us feel at home.
The remote nature of the area makes the 4-star style accommodation offered at the resort all the more amazing. In the last year or two, Sonora Resort has built two new lodges, with a post-and-beam style, with lots of wood and stone accents. The result is serene rooms with lots of windows, and the resort fits well with the surrounding environment of evergreen forests and fast-flowing waters.
My friend and I were tempted to spend most of our time poolside, with a few gossip magazines and good conversation. But there's lots to do at the resort: wildlife and whale watching tours by zodiac, bear-watching tours on with the nearby Holmokla First Nations, and a large, full service spa... among many others. The resort also has a strong fishing program, and a few groups of guys were spending most of their days catching salmon - I'm not a fishergirl, but really appreciate the results. I tried very hard to convince them that they couldn't possibly take home all of their catch and I could take care of what remained, but they never took the hook, so to speak.
Throughout our stay, fantastic meals were served in the dining room, fantastic activities were arranged by the coordinator, and wonderful pre-dinner drinks and snacks were served every evening before dinner, outside on one of the many decks overlooking the water. It was a truly special experience, and one so easy to access from Vancouver.
There are many other fly-in, all inclusive resorts around the province, both in coastal and mountain terrain. Check out Hellobc.com for more information.
Dinosaurs in Gastown
I have a five-year-old son, which makes me a pseudo-amateur-expert on dinosaurs, or what I like to call a “parental paleontologist.” So of course I just had to take Kje to the Dinosaur exhibit at Storyeum . Admittedly, I had no idea what to expect; all I knew was that the exhibit was from China and Mongolia.
Turns out the exhibit showcases complete dinosaur skeletons, 11 of them in total, with a few of them comprised of 70-85% actual fossilized bones. To an amateur-expert (cough, cough), this is professional-expert stuff! Another fascinating element of the exhibit is the fossil of the flying microraptor. Most of the 100+ prehistoric fossils came from the area in China where they recently discovered flying dinosaurs. Which means that instead of starring Brachiosaurus, Iguanodon and Stegosaurus, this exhibit features Mamenchisaurus, Shuangmiaosaurus and Chrichtonsaurus, a newly discovered ankylosaur named after Michael Crichton, the author of Jurassic Park.
Kje was pretty bored of the scientific stuff, but he loved the live Jurassic Park-like performance from “Sparky” the animatronic T-rex. We sat through this 13-minute show three times. He also liked digging in the sand for dinosaur footprints and playing dino games on a computer.
By the end of our two-hour visit, I was wondering why the exhibit wasn’t placed in a “true” museum. After all, this is pretty amazing stuff. But then again, Storyeum in many ways is a real museum, complete with stories and artifacts from BC’s history. And if live actors, animatronics and props help a five-year-old appreciate history better, then maybe other museums should tempt us with theatrics too.
Dinosaurs is leaving Vancouver in September, 2006.
Surfin in Tofino
After watching the video Jeanine submitted last week, I started searching YouTube for more videos we can post on this blog. When searching for Tofino I can across the video below by Planet Smashers , a Ska band from Montreal who dedicated a song to the surf culture in Tofino . Enjoy!
Howe Sound Heaven
I just spent two glorious days relaxing on Gambier Island and I found it to be the perfect prescription for de-stressing. From Sunset Marina just north of Horseshoe Bay on Highway 99, we took a $20 water taxi to our destination. There are cabins for rent on Gambier and the other Howe Sound islands and it makes for a quick getaway from Vancouver. My two sisters and I were lucky enough to be able to borrow a friend’s cabin although the deal was we had to dog-sit a 3-year old, energetic pooch named Lexi.
We traveled with another party who were heading to Gambier Island for a family reunion. We were happy to help unload their large group and all their gear (including 5 dogs and a cat in a cage!) as we then had the water taxi all to ourselves. Shortly thereafter, my sisters, Lexi and I were docked at our cabin and after hauling our gear up the hill, settled in to a home that welcomed us with open arms. There were 3 decks to ensure that we were able to sit in the sun regardless of the time of day or the angle of the sun. The fridge stocked our food and kept our BC wine cool. Sun block and magazines were all we needed as we reclined in our deck chairs and absorbed the incredible view of Howe Sound. The city is hidden behind Bowen Island so the feeling of being very far away settled in immediately.
We debated over the destination of the cruise ship we saw off in the distance as even our binoculars could not help us determine the ship’s name. We watched the BC ferry travel back and forth from Langdale and marvelled in the sight of the turkey vultures and eagles that flew over us silently. To prevent us from sitting too still for too long (and attracting even more attention from the raptors above!), Lexi forced us to explore the island. We walked along old forest trails and through knee-high grasses in attempt to tire out the dog and to burn off some of the food and wine were enjoying.
Unfortunately Sunday evening came too soon and we saw the water taxi off in the distance. We loaded our gear onto the dock again and prepared for the transition back to city life…
A friend's visit in BC
On June 25 and July 1-3 I had some friends of mine visit Mount Seymour, Joffre Lakes and Lilloet and here is what they thought:
Boca del Lupo
If you find yourself in Vancouver's Stanley park late one evening, and suddenly a crowd of 100 emerges from the forest and a man comes crashing down from the tops of the trees, don't worry... you've only stumbled across Vancouver's newest midsummer ritual. Boca Del Lupo is one of Vancouver's outdoor theatre experiences, and this summer they're performing The Shoes that were Danced to Pieces , a roving play that unfolds in the canopied forest of Stanley Park. My husband and I went to the opening performance last night and had a great time.
I went not knowing what to expect and was charmed by the light and tongue-in-cheek tale, of 10 princesses who emerged from their bedroom each night with their shoes in tatters. A hapless 'poor guy' takes on the task of discovering what happens, even though he is under threat of beheading by the daddy-king if he doesn't discover the truth ("Harsh," as the princesses say).
I loved it. Even a little light rain and a few pesky mosquitos (complimentary bug spray can be found at the check-in table) didn't dampen the audience's spirit, as we were drawn into the story. The whole crowd was invited to troop into the princesses' "bedroom" to help solve the riddle, while kids as young as one and two (and as old as 62) enthusiastically yelled helpful advice to the 'poor guy'.
If you're interested in going, move quickly: this season's performances are almost sold out, and a handful of additional shows have just been added (and are sure to go quickly as well). Keep an eye on their website , because future seasons will likely be as much fun... and as popular. And if you're interested in other outdoor theatre in BC, check out Bard on the Beach and Theatre Under the Stars , both in Vancouver, and Armstrong's Caravan Farm Theatre .
BC Ferries
While most tourist who board BC Ferries for the first time find their voyage busy with exploring the ship and gawking at the passing scenery, BCers who regularly travels on BC ferries finds they develop a system for their own journey. Here's a few tips, starting with the food options.
On the bigger boats, the cafeteria is a popular place to head. In fact, most people head straight for the food lineup upon boarding. I usually wait a while, 'cause I really hate lineups, and wait for the crowds to pass by about 1/2 way through the journey.
Two reliable staples from the cafeteria are the fries, and the self-serve soft-serve ice cream. The fries are pretty standard, but happily so: crispy outside, soft inside. As for the ice cream, my husband and brother-in-law can't get enough: they tend to test the boundaries of gravity with the height of ice-cream spirals.
Now, my personal favourite food option is being prepared in advance. Last weekend we cruised from Vancouver over to the Gulf Islands on one of the smallest ferries, the Bowen Queen , who's cafeteria is only stocked with the basics (ie hot dogs; a classic, appropriate in the right context, works in a pinch). But we had other plans: we brought along a picnic backpack filled with cheese, pate, crackers and fresh blueberries. We set up camp on the top, outside deck (north side to take advantage of the setting sun's rays) and had one of the best, most scenic meals I've had in some time.
Here's some of my other ferry tips... although keep in mind things can change from ship to ship, and route to route:
*If you have kids, head for the mid-section of the boat, there's usually a play area for the kids. If you have no kids, stay away from the mid-section of the boat, it can be filled with noisy kids. Head instead upstairs towards the stern / back of the boat, there's usually a relatively quiet lounge somwhere around here. If you're feeling flush, there's a new 'first class' lounge on some of the Tsawwassen-Swartz Bay departures that costs an extra $10 to hang out in, but it's worth it on busy sailings: it's quiet, with wall-to-wall windows, stocked with complimentary snacks and beverages, and reading material.
* If it's a nice day, spending the sailing on the outside decks can be really nice. Take a second to figure out which side the sun will be on, and head to that side. Otherwise it can get pretty cool in the wind.
* If the boat has a gift shop, check it out, they're surprisingly good and well stocked. Check out the book section, there's usually a number of BC authors, both fiction and non-fiction, plus a smattering of books on and by BC's First Nations. For kids, there's a can't-miss blow up toy of a BC Ferry, about a foot or two long: perfect if you're headed for a beach to splash around.
*For the smaller boats and shorter sailings, often the car deck is in the open. For heaven's sake, get out of your car and go hang out at the front of the boat. Many times that's where we've spotted porpoises or pilot whales, playing in the bow wave. Keep an eye on the horizon, too, to spot the blowhole spray and fins of Orca whales which are often found in the Straight of Georgia waters. (If the captain spots them too, he'll usually slow down and let passengers know, so you can get a better look)
*Last but not least, the obvious advice: make a reservation if you're on a reservable route. Seriously. There is no such thing as "quality time" in a parking lot.
A bit of last minute camping
The kids and I woke up last Saturday to a beautiful sunny day, and decided to go on a spontaneous overnight camping trip. Knowing that many of the BC Parks camping grounds would be full, we headed out on one of the logging roads just north of Squamish , and camped for free along the Squamish River. We drove past our usual camping locale and, lucky for us, found a campers dream come true – a perfect spot equipped with leftover firewood, a raised fire pit, easy access to the glacial-fed river and its sandbars, complete privacy, and a mountain view of two receding glaciers complete with waterfalls. Not bad for a 2 ½ hour drive from Vancouver (not counting the stop in Squamish to watch rock-climbing on the Chief and to fill our cooler with marshmallows, popcorn, hot dogs, ketchup, hot chocolate, and other mandatory camping fare).
Camping along B.C.’s logging roads doesn’t require a 4x4 – our little Mazda Protégé did just fine going 60 km/hour on the relatively smooth gravel road (I was pretending I was on a road rally!). Ironically, I got a flat tire on the newly paved highway on the way to Squamish (putting on spare and mandatory stop at Canadian Tire also not counted in our 2 ½ hour timecount… and thank you to the two cars who stopped to help), and yet made it through 40 miles of logging road unscathed. Check out this link for more info on free camping in B.C .
If you are interested in seeing the mountains and glaciers on-the-move, the Squamish River has also become quite the hot spot for river rafting . We saw four expeditions heading to the river as we were heading home.
To Benny or Not To Benny
That was the question Sunday morning after Canada Day. We chose to benny, and by this I mean indulge in heart-stopping eggs benedict for breakfast. I am a big fan of breakfast, and when I travel I like to eat in unique, greasy-spoon joints. You know the place I mean – long line-ups, stuff on the walls, old music and an endless flow of coffee being poured by a woman who calls you “honey.” In the case of our Canada Day weekend trip to Victoria , we found two delightful diners.
The first day we stopped at John’s Place . The lineup was 20 minutes long, the walls were filled with celebrity (and not-so-celebrity) pictures, posters of rock stars and sports memorabilia, and the music stuck with us for the rest of the day. The waitress kept filling our coffee cups even though we said we had enough… a few times. She addressed us as “daahh-lings.” My veggie benny was $8.95, came with a heaping mound of hash browns, and could have used a bit more hollandaise sauce, but really, isn't that a given?
Superman, Charlie Chaplin and Marilyn Monroe all grace the menu at our second-day stop, Floyd’s Place. The building is appropriately painted pink. My stomach couldn’t take another benny, so I ordered the $3.95 traditional – eggs, hash browns and toast – which also came with a heaping mound of seasoned oh-so-yummy carbs. Floyd’s has a sunny outdoor patio and the inside is comfortably decorated with deep couches, bright walls and a lively fish tank for the kids. I dare you to order the Mahoney – you get what the kitchen prepares and you can either pay the original price or flip them for it – double or nothing! No lineup that day and located at the corner of Pandora and Yates.
Haida Gwaii
One of the most magical days of my life was spent last summer in Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve, in the Queen Charlotte Islands.
Before dawn, we arrived by boat at S'gang Gwaii, previously known as Ninstints, home to a first nations village for hundreds of years until the late 1800s. Today, a collection of totems and the remains of longhouses are slowly disintegrating back into the ground, completing their life cycle. The remarkable carvings can still be seen in the aged wood, and it's not difficult to imagine what a settlement here would look and feel like, when it was filled with families and houses. We stayed for the sun rise, and watched the light hit the front of the poles. After soaking up the silence, we wandered down the path to meet the Haida Watchmen who care for the site, and heard some of the stories of their culture - both past and present.
Later that same day, sailing north towards our next site, Hotspring Island, we spotted a couple of long fin whales swimming not far away. We trailed along behind them, until we were joined by a pod of at least two dozen humpback whales. We watched in silence and awe as they splashed around us, feeding on the tiny critters they eat in these waters. And as we reluctantly turned the boat to leave (some hours later) we were joined by a huge pod of about 50 or so exuberant porpoises, who played energetically in our bow wave and jumped through our wake.
Haida Gwaii - also known as the Queen Charlotte Island - tops lots of people's list as a dream place for a vacation. But it's a unique place, and can take a bit of time to understand it's extraordinary virtues... as well as it's limitations.
For one, it's remote and can be expensive - and time consuming - to reach. And if you're the type of traveller who likes to find a Four Seasons hotel at the end of the journey, it's probably not the place for you! With the exception of a few fly-in fishing lodges, the limited accommodation on the islands is comfortable but basic. Camping is perhaps the easiest and best alternative, particularly in the busy and relatively dry summer season.
There are few roads on the islands - the main one connects Queen Charlotte City with Masset, and points in between like Tlell and Skidegate. But the main draw of the islands is not the towns - most visitors who come here are drawn by the beauty and the remote coastal wilderness of the islands.
You'll find deep forest and beautiful beaches on Graham Island, the northern of the two main islands, but the jewel in the crown is of course Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve, made up of the southern end of Moresby Island and the archipelago surrounding it.
Part of the allure of this National Park Reserve is the fact that it's difficult to reach, and the few people that do visit the park are rewarded with a world that seems to be theirs alone - you certainly won't find crowds here. There are no roads leading into the park - it's boat or plane access only.
For those that want a gentle wilderness experience, joining one of the sailboats that meanders throught the islands - as i did - is your best bet. Usually offering week-long tours, the boats offer comfortable on-board accommodation, visits to the significant first nations heritage sites, and plenty of interpretive background information to put the trip into context with the environmental and cultural background of the islands. I sailed for a few days with Blue Water Adventures - the boat was very comfortable, the food delicious, and a crew that was friendly and knowledgable.
For the more independent and adventureous, you can pack up a kayak with the supplies that you'll need and have a floatplane charter from Queen Charlotte City drop you off in the park, and pick you up some days later at a designated time and place. Obviously, you need to have some specialized skills for a trip like this, but the people I met who had done this found it a life-changing trip. There are also guided kayak trips available on the islands from companies like Ecosummer Expeditions