December 2005
Getting to Whistler the Easy Way
It's true - driving to Whistler can get a bit scary, especially with construction and agressive drivers on the road. I especially don't like driving late at night or early in the morning when I feel as though I am not following the road, but the lights on the car in front of me instead.
So last time I needed to head north, which happened to be late at night with working construction, I decided to let Greyhound drive for me. For $35.50 (round-trip from downtown Vancouver) I spent 2 1/2 hours at the front of the bus.
Since it was dark outside I wasn't able to see too much so I tried to sleep, but a very chatty fellow sat down beside me and filled our time with his stories of working on an organic farm in "P Town" (Pemberton), growing up and hiking in the "Stoke" (Revelstoke) and coming into Vancouver to get the essentials for living on a farm (gumboots and raincoats).
I have spent way too many hours on buses in Thailand, Vietnam, Portugal, Honduras and Guatemala and I have to say that this was the cleanest, quietest bus I have ever travelled on - complete with late night bed-time stories!
French frites and fine wine
My friend Kathy is a self-confessed "foodie" (which is probably why we get along so well). While visiting her recently in Victoria, she insisted that I try her new favourite restaurant - Brasserie L'Ecole (on Government Street near Chinatown). There are two things she told me I must do: 1) order the frites (fancy french word for "the best fries you will ever have") and 2) try a wine I have never had before.
As she explained, the best thing about this restaurant is the extensive wine list. If you want to try a glass from any open bottle, simply divide the cost of the bottle by 5, and that is your glass price. If you want to try an unopened bottle, just commit to two glasses, and they will open anything in stock. It is a great chance to try something new (and expensive!) without the commitment to the whole bottle.
I must admit that the wine list was intimidating, and when I told the server this, she offered to bring me a wine to match my meal. Hence my recommendation for the #3 thing one must do when eating at this establishment - trust your server to suggest a great wine.
Next time I am in town, I am going to join Kathy on one of her trips to the Brasserie bar to see what bottles have been uncorked that night. If I want a table in this small restaurant I will be sure to make a reservation.
Cheers!
Bye Bye Bah Humbug - A Visit to The Fairmont Empress
I have to admit, I haven't been in the Christmas spirit. The shopping mall parking lot tends not to bring out the best in me and work has been busy, and its so hard to find the right present, and, and, and. Today however, I got that lovely tingly feeling after a visit to the Fairmont Empress Hotel. Heading out on my lunch hour to battle the crowds, I was on a mission to purchase a gift certificate at the incredible Willow Stream Spa. From the moment I walked into the lobby of the Empress, my spirits started to lift. The bellman opened the door with fanfare and wished me a Merry Christmas and the staff at the spa were delightful, professional and my modest purchase was treated with the same dignity and respect as the lady beside me purchasing the "Pure Pampering Full Day Special".
Once my beautifully packaged gift was purchased, I made my way back to the lobby where I stopped to admire the works of local business who have participated in the Festival of Trees. Trees are decorated in a wide range of themes from the traditional balls and garlands to themed trees featuring dumptrucks and flashing lights and proceeds from the event go to the BC Childrens Hospital. One of my personal favourites was the Wedding Tree complete with tin cans and a Barbie bride as a tree top.
I wandered further and ended up in the Tea Lobby where guests dressed up in Christmas finery (the little girl in the red velvet dress stole my heart) were enjoying the world famous Afternoon Tea and entertained by a choir decked in period costume.
Reluctantly, it was time to return to work, but as I passed back through the lobby, I watched excited guests arriving for their stay at the Empress, the anticipation in their eyes just knowing they were going to have a very special Christmas was evident. I walked out with a smile on my face and looked forward to getting home to my family and starting our Christmas festivities.
Icewine Festival
The Sun Peaks Icewine Festival is coming up in mid-January, and it's an event not to be missed. I attended last years festival, and had a great time. Held at Sun Peaks, a ski resort in the BC interior (about 45 minutes from Kamloops), the festival is a celebration of harvest time for the icewine grapes.
Icewine, for the uninitiated, is a sweet dessert wine which is created from grapes that are left on the vine until mid-winter. They are only harvested after the temperatures have dipped below freezing for an extended period, which freezes the grape right through. The solid grapes are then pressed, and the resulting sweet juice is fermented into a really remarkable drink.
But the festival's activities aren't restricted to just dessert wines. Last year, I attended seminars that covered topics such as pairing wine with cheese, and another on BC's unique wines and wine regions. But for me, the call of the outdoors was too much to keep me inside all day. A snowshoeing tour, a snowbike lesson, and as much skiing as I could fit in, put roses in my cheeks all weekend (really, it was because of the brisk outdoor activity, not the wine...)
The highlight of the festival is the progressive tasting, where wineries are set up throughout the resort's village, and festival-goers, with glass in hand, wind (or weave) their way through the pedestrian streets to the many tasting tables.
This year, the Sun Peak Icewine festival is January 19 - 22, 2006.
Bright Lights, High Places
I live in North Vancouver and on Sunday December 18th I decided on a whim to take my husband and 4 year old son to Canyon Lights at Capilano Suspension Bridge. We were going to go out somewhere for dinner, but felt we should do something more fun and “Christmassy”.
We had a wonderful evening – the canyon was lit up with beautiful Christmas lights, we crossed the famous suspension bridge and ventured across Treetops (7 suspension bridges in the tree canopy, 100 feet above the ground) – which looked magical at night all lit up. My 4 year old son was so excited and enjoyed every moment, quote: “This is much better than watching TV or staying in bed all day” – a compliment indeed! I cannot think of a more enjoyable family Christmas evening, surrounded by Christmas lights, carol singers, friendly and courteous staff throughout the park – and the added bonus, for an entry fee of $19.95 (normal price is $21.95 but BC residents get a $2 discount) we were given a free year’s membership on the spot.
For the next two weeks until December 31 (except Christmas Day), Canyon Lights is open until 9:00 pm in the evenings.
Full Moon Snowshoeing at Mount Seymour
Vancouver is blessed to have three mountains within a 40 minute drive of the city. The snow conditions can vary from incredible to incredibly wet (the highest peak is just over 4,000 ft).
Last night was the full moon and the skies were crystal clear - a perfect night for a full moon snowshoe tour of Mount Seymour. A small group of work colleagues joined a group of hardy souls for a 2 hour stomp through the woods on snowshoes. I'm not usually one for guided tours, but having got lost on snowshoes in the daylight, going with a guide on a night time excursion is probably a good idea. Although the two guides had headlamps, I was amazed that the moon gave off enough light to snowshoe by.
The group climbed to Dinky Peak (which wasn't all that dinky) and we were rewarded with an incredible view of the city of Vancouver. Our guide entertained us with lots of moon and astronomy facts & trivia along the way. It was a bit too much for me at times, although I did learn a few things like each full moon has a name(December's full moon is called the long moon since the nights are longest this month). Mount Seymour offers full moon and big moon tours twice a month. The cost is reasonable - $29 which includes snowshoe rentals, trail ticket, guiding, and a cup of syrupy hot chocolate.
Surfs Up, Dude
I have to say, hailing from the flatlands of Saskatchewan (insert prairie-themed joke here), my ambitions for adventure did not include the following:
a) High Tides
b) Gnarly Waves
c) Full-body wetsuits
But having spent the better part of three wild and wet days in Vancouver Island’s picturesque town of Tofino, the above proved just the right combination of elements for me to discover my latest and greatest outdoor pursuit. I’m now a surfer, dude.
It’s a bit surprising that I took such shine to a sport that required an extraordinarily large amount of work and prep-time before you even hit the waves. I like to get to the point. And quite frankly, the afore-mentioned wetsuit is simply not flattering. On anyone. It took some great enthusiasm (and endless chants of “you can do this”) from our instructor to put me in the right mind-set…but once I was there, I was rarin’ to go.
Trudging out to meet the waves…I leapt on my board…paddle, paddle, paddle…a wave hits…squat and stand at the same time (thank you weekly yoga classes)…I’m standing! I am one with the wave! I don’t look too bad in this wetsuit!
Then, reality. I hit the water, legs and arms flailing. Hands go up, clenched in fists, over my head to protect me from a loose board (good thing we practiced all those safety precautions). I taste salt water…and am momentarily perplexed (again, from Saskatchewan, so it takes me a split second). I look over at my instructor, eyes wide. Big smile and a thumbs up.
I knew then I was hooked as I headed out for my next wave. I charged out time and again and as daylight seeped away, I eventually was called to shore. The only thing that could ease the melancholy of leaving my new-found friend was the promise of oysters (and lots of them) that awaited me at my hotel. The perfect close to a gnarly day.
Check out the guys at Pacific Surf School, as they have the skinny on righteous waves and plenty of good times.
The Long Beach Lodge Resort and The Wickaninnish Inn are sure to provide proper sustenance…ideal for taking on the tides.
Mmmm... Beer.
I'm not normally a creature of habit. But, for me, a trip to Victoria isn't complete without a visit to Spinnakers Gastro Brewpub. It's the oldest brewpub in Canada and their beer is so tasty (not to mention their food!). Their beer list changes from visit to visit but the last time I was there, I tried the Pumpkin Porter and the Holiday Saison. Thumbs up for both.
One of the best things about Victoria is that it is really easy to get around on foot. (Which is especially fortunate after you've had a few beers.) If you're not ready to call it a night after Spinnakers, you can follow the self-guided Ale Trail and stop in at some of the city's other craft breweries.
Canoe Brewpub, Marina & Restaurant is housed inside a beautiful 19th century brick and timber building (it was once the municipal hydro plant). They have a daily "appy hour" if you have the munchies.
Just a few short blocks away is Swans Brewpub. It's located inside the Swans Hotel and is home to a stunning art collection (everything from original Pierre Trudeau paintings to First Nations' art). Again, they have very yummy craft ales and lagers. They also have a really good home-brewed non-alcoholic root beer on tap.
From Swans, you can end the Ale Trail at Hugo's Brewhouse which has the look-and-feel of a funky warehouse with high ceilings, brick walls and exposed pipes. You can cap off the evening with my fave drink there - the Super G beer (it has ginseng in it, so it must be good for you!)
North Pole Central @ Maurice Young Millennium Place, Whistler
From December 17th to the 30th, Whistler’s community centre for arts, culture and inspiration -Maurice Young Millennium Place- will be completely transformed into a winter wonderland for the inaugural North Pole Central festival. This family-oriented festival is sure to get you into the Christmas spirit.
At noon on December 17th, the festival kicks off with Santa arriving in Whistler on the Fire Rescue Service’s No.1 fire engine. Live music, street performers, children’s activities and hot chocolate will round off the day’s festivities.
Over the following two weeks visitors can get involved in a variety of fun events. There will be daytime activities on Whistler Blackcomb, indoor craft workshops, seasonal sing-alongs, holiday films, and headline music and comedy shows.
Kids will want to visit Santa’s workshop to deliver their letters and get their photo taken with the big guy himself. Be sure to stop by the festive holiday beverage bar to satisfy your hot chocolate and eggnog cravings.
Maurice Young Millennium Place is located on Blackcomb Way near Village North.
Get your Outdoor Gear
It's not hard to tell that most British Columbians love to get outdoors. One of the worst-kept secrets for outdoor adventurers in BC is a store called Mountain Equipment Co-op (also known as MEC). Founded in Vancouver, this large store stocks outdoor technical clothes, backpacks, bike parts, backcountry ski equipment, kayaks and paddles, and much more. The prices are the lowest you'll find anywhere for the same standard of quality.
Case in point: a friend who lives in New Zealand and travels regularly to see his sister in the UK, always makes sure his flight has a stopover in Vancouver to stock up at MEC.
The store sees a steady stream of out-of-towners checking out the gear, and the logo is almost as common a symbol as the maple leaf, identifying Canadian travellers when they head out on excursions. (When I was hiking in Spain, a fellow traveller noticed I was Canadian when she spotted my MEC socks!)
The store requires all shoppers to purchase a $5 membership, and the co-op structure means MEC's pricing is fair and mark-ups are minimal. You'll find two MEC outlets in Vancouver, one on Broadway and one in North Vancouver.
Early Season Ski Deals
December is the skier's secret month. While most people bustle about with their Christmas shopping, attend office parties and other social functions, real snow enthusiasts are making time to hit the slopes too. December means great snow, and in the weeks before school holidays begin, deals abound – free lift tickets, discounted lodging, and even massive savings on snow cat and heli-skiing adventures. Give yourself an early-season Christmas present – beat the crowds, and take advantage of some great winter deals.
Kicking Horse Saves the Snow For Christmas:
Not all resorts in BC rush to open for US Thanksgiving. Kicking Horse Mountain Resort near Golden has scheduled their opening for December 16. With over a hundred and fifty centimetres blanketing the upper parts of the mountain, opening Day is shaping up to be an epic. There's a variety of new accommodations too, located right at the base of the Golden Eagle Express gondola, ranging from $85 - $147 CDN per person/per night for accommodation and a lift ticket – not just in early season, but through to January and February as well.
Whistler Classic Raises Money for a Good Cause:
It's not too early to get a team together for the 14th annual TELUS Winter Classic, January 27 – 28, 2006 at Whislter. This two-day package is is not only the ultimate Whistler Getaway, all of the money raised goes to charity! The $1700 (per team) price includes all-day lift tickets, skiing with one of Whistler-Blackcomb's internationally-renowned ski pros, and lift-line priority to eliminate the wait; not to mention a host of special events too. Since 1993, the event has raised over $3.5 million for a variety of charities, including local Search and Rescue teams, schools, food banks, and programs which focus on children, youth and families. Teams which register before December 31, 2005 will receive a $100 discount on their team entry. Visit the Whister website for more information.
Early Season Cat Skiing/Heli Deals:
Most skiers and riders use December to warm-up to the season before heading on an off-piste adventure, so many cat and 'copter outfits keep a low profile until the Christmas holidays. This year though there are several amazing early season deals to be had. At Mike Wiegele Helicopter Skiing you can ski and ride the same slopes where Warren Miller's Higher Ground was filmed. Prices start from $3,300 CDN plus tax for a three-day package, to $7,924 for a seven-day package. Shuttle service from Kamloops, chalet lodging and gourmet meals included. Packages at Mustang Powder and Monashee Powder Snowcats have been slashed to $350 and $300 per day, respectively, and in Revelstoke, CAT Powder Skiing has an early season deal for the unbelievably low price of only $250 per day (All prices CDN Dollars, GST and BC Hotel Tax extra). Come experience the powder.
Red Mountain Packages for a Variety of Budgets:
Red Resort has announced its line-up of special getaway packages for the 2005-06 winter season. The Ram’s Head Inn Package includes five nights accommodation, three days of lift tickets per person, and starts at $625 for each guest. For an additional $229 per person, visitors are welcome to add a day of powder-filled backcountry cat skiing. The Granite Mountain Chalet Package is a three-night stay, based on six-person occupancy, starting at $356 per person. The deal includes a ski-in/ski-out private mountain chalet with a two-day lift ticket per person. The Prestige Mountain Resort Package includes a seven-night stay and five Red lift tickets per person, starting at $659 per person. The Thriftlodge Red, White and You Package provides an economic getaway with five nights accommodation, a three-day Red lift pass for each guest, and single lift tickets to Whitewater Resort, beginning at $452 per person, based on six-person occupancy.
Burnaby Village Museum
I grew up in Burnaby and walked by the Burnaby Village Museum everyday on my way to school. This weekend, it was time to take my kids to the 1920's heritage town. We were planning on visiting Father Christmas, but after wandering in and out of the 30 heritage buildings, watching the town's blacksmith demonstrate how to forge, and cheering on the jovial baker as he made animal candies out of marzipan, we had little time left for anything else - except the carousel!
We wandered past the roving Christmas carollers and the replica church (which my dad helped build by the way), paid our $1.50 and walked into the carousel house.
Yee-haw! Hold on tight - here we go! The hand-carved 1912 carousel actually did go around pretty fast and my little horse with it's corn-cob saddle swiftly bobbed up and down in time to Jingle Bells.
After a quick visit to the candy shop for our Root Beer Float, Sour Apple and Bubblegum candy sticks, it was time to go back to 2005.
The Heritage Christmas event is open until January 1, but the village and carousel are open all year round.
World Cup Cross-Country Skiing Event - Vernon
This weekend Vernon is going to be a happening place! The Viessmann FIS World Cup 2005 is being held at the Sovereign Lake Nordic Centre, approximately a 20 minute drive from Vernon. This is an exciting event as it is the last chance for the 160 cross-country ski athletes to compete for a spot in Torino at the 2006 Winter Olympics in February.
Vernon has really jumped onboard. It seems like the entire community is getting involved with several events going on in addition to the races. The races take place on Saturday, Dec 10th and Sunday, Dec 11th and the Vernon Museum is housing a small exhibit on cross-country skiing, the Okanagan Science Centre is offering an interpretive program called “World Cup Slippery Slopes” and Festival on the Hill is a full day of festivities including North Okanagan performers to keep spectators entertained.
By the way, did you know that Sovereign Lake Nordic Centre is known as one of the premier cross-country ski areas in North America? They are next to Silver Star Ski Resort so between the two facilities, they have over 100km (60 miles) of ski trails.
Skating at Butchart Gardens!
I'm really looking forward to this weekend. Not only has Victoria experienced our first snow fall of the season (and possibly only), the beginning of December marks the start of Christmas seasonal celebrations at Butchart Gardens. I want to get out to Butchart early this year (we try and go every year as a family tradition) and view the wonderful display of lights enhanced with a snow frosting. I'm especially looking forward to trying out Butchart's newest addition, an outdoor skating rink! Carollers, twinkling lights, skating, hot chocolate, poinsettias and the search for the twelve days of Christmas! I'm definitely going to be in the Christmas spirit after this weekend!
Linda McCartney Exhibit at Royal BC Museum
It is finally here! The long awaited showing of Linda McCartney’s exhibit, “Sixties, Portrait of an Era” opened today at the Royal British Columbia Museum. The 51-photograph exhibit of 1960s musical icons includes Jimmy Hendrix, The Beatles, Janis Joplin, Aretha Franklin, the Grateful Dead, Bob Dylan, The Rolling Stones, etc… I can’t think of a better way to escape some of the Christmas shopping mayhem and slip back in time to the days I remember so well. Since seeing the exhibit this morning, I find myself humming my old favourite tunes.
The exhibit runs from now until January 31, 2006.