October 2005
Vancouver's culture crawl
One of my favourite annual events in Vancouver is coming up. The Eastside Culture Crawl is a weekend in November (this year, the 18 - 20th) when local artists open up their studios that dot the semi-industrial eastside of Vancouver. You can visit the studios of everyone from furniture makers to sculptors to painters to potters; some very mainstream, and others very eclectic.
It's a great way to get to know the style and spirit of many Vancouver artists, and explore an oft-forgotten neighbourhood. My favourite stop is Joe Blow Glassworks, to watch the glassblowers at work. A must to cap off your studio-crawl is a gelato from the pink-coloured La Casa Gelato; an amazing shop with hundreds of flavours of the italian frozen treat.
A New Way to Fly
Travelling from Vancouver to Victoria this week, I had my first ride on Helijet's new 23 passenger Sikorsky S61 and it was a treat! Launched on September 19th, a joint initiative with Helijet Airways and Executive Transport Airways, this bird takes flying to a whole new level. I must admit confusion as I knew I was riding on a helicopter but upon entering the long and lean machine I was greeted by a flight attendant who launched into a safety briefing so similar to those you hear on airplane flights. My seat was incredibly comfy and I had a perfect view of Georgia Strait in my individual window seat. The view is indeed spectacular however, the gentle motion of the helicopter (ear plugs still a must) put me into a pretty good nap and awoke only to hear the attendants landing announcement. If you're travelling between Victoria and Vancouver in the next while, you may want to check out their schedule and give it a try!
Honeymoon on Vancouver Island
This fall when my new husband and I got married, our plans had a definite 'island' theme. We followed our wedding on Galiano Island in the Gulf Islands with a honeymoon on Vancouver Island, and the combination couldn't have been more perfect.
We left Galiano Island by ferry at the finale of a weekend of celebration with family and friends. Our first destination was Sooke, a small town about 30 minutes drive outside of Victoria. We stayed at Sooke Harbour House, a charming inn on the ocean, which has a relaxed and whimsical style.
The best part about the inn is the amazing food served in the dining room. We sampled some of the most remarkable and delicious dishes, but my favourite was always the sablefish: first night smoked, next night steamed.
The inn's food focuses on local products, especially from their own completely edible garden. On our last morning, we toured the garden with the head gardener and some of the other guests, and discovered that not only is tuberous begonia edible, it's also really delicious... who knew?
We departed Sooke and headed northwest towards Tofino, on the west coast of the island and facing the open Pacific. The area is known for big waves, great surfing and fantastic storm-watching in winter, but amazingly we found ourselves there on some of the clearest, calmest and most beautiful days I have ever seen.
The Wickaninnish Inn was our home for the next few nights, and it's location beside the a long stretch of sandy beach was perfect. We pulled on our rubber boots and walked out to explore the tideline, finding all kinds of fun things like gooseneck barnacles, sea anenomes, starfish and sunfish. And, following a pattern established at Sooke, we kept on eating fantastic food. My new husband got pretty hooked on the dungeness crab bisque served at the Wickaninnish's restaurant, while I fell hard for Tofino's version of 'street food' - fish tacos served out of a catering truck at SoBo Restaurant.
The giant picture window in our room faced out onto the beach, and the subtle luxury of the inn didn't give us much reason to want to leave. So we spent a heck of a lot of time just relaxing on the patio, sipping sparkling BC wine and watching the waves advance, then recede, then advance, then recede...
Too soon it was time to return home. I can't think of a more beautiful place to have spent the first days of our marriage than Vancouver Island. Luckily, we will have many anniversaries to celebrate a return!
A Quick Trip to the South Okanagan
A very quick business trip to the South Okanagan this week left me thinking about what an incredible part of the province the Okanagan is and how I must bring my family back to enjoy more of it.
I took the night flight into Penticton on a tiny Central Mountain Air Beech 1900D (operating on behalf of Air Canada) in which every seat is both a window and an aisle. The airport looked dark and quiet but the Budget Rent a Car guy was waiting patiently for me and handed me the keys to my shiny Toyota Corolla. Having driven a standard for the last few years, I initially had some trouble remembering not to put my foot through the floorboards in effort to locate the clutch! My accommodation for the evening was the Penticton Lakeside Resort. A friendly desk clerk offered me an upgrade to a lakeside view which I happily accepted and gratefully enjoyed the next morning as I watched the sun come up on beautiful Okanagan Lake. I made a mental note to add this property to the list of ones I want to come back to with my family. A casino for my husband, jet-skis for our teenager and a gym and long beach walks for me!
The next morning I struck out for Osoyoos, a very pleasant half hour drive south on Hwy 97. Of course I knew that the Okanagan was famous for its wines but I don’t think I really realized the extent of winery development as kilometre after kilometre I saw signposts leading to tasting rooms and acres and acres of vines. My sense of sight and sound were on full alert as I took in the changing colours of the vines and tried out the wonderful names of the wineries on my tongue (taste to come later!). “Blasted Church”, “Wild Goose” and ”Burrowing Owl” especially intrigued me.
A successful meeting in Osoyoos and then a visit to the newest resort in the South Okanagan, Spirit Ridge Vineyard Resort and Spa. While the majority of the resort is still under construction, I took a peek at the completed condo accommodation and quickly saw the potential of the resort is endless. The view from the ridge is spectacular and I could well imagine myself enjoying a luxurious spa day while husband golfed the executive course and teenager did his water thing. It would be capped off with an incredible meal with wine from the local aboriginally owned and operated Nk’Mip Cellars. Again another note to file for family holiday.
OK, enough about the sights and sounds you say, get on with the tasting! Heading back to Penticton I stopped at the local VQA store in Oliver where I was directed to the Golden Mile. Looking for a full bodied Chardonnay, I was pleasantly surprised to find they still had a few bottles of the 2004 Black Arts, a recent Bronze medalist at the Fall Okanagan Wine Festival. The vintner claimed it was the best he’d ever made and the taste was smooth and velvety! I felt particularly lucky as apparently the festival the weekend previous was so successful that many of the wineries were sold out of their award winning brands.
Armed with three bottles of liquid gold, I instructed the pilot/flight attendant of the trusty Beech to take great care with my carry on luggage and I settled into my window/aisle seat for a pleasant trip back to Victoria and a long list of reasons to come back to the Okanagan very soon.
Whistler Fine Dining - in Orange
When I was a little girl, my parents took me to Sunshine Village for a family ski vacation. I remember waking up every morning and eating my fresh fruit breakfast in a dining room that, for me, epitomized the 1970’s. Imagine orange knit drapes, an open fireplace, tiled and wood walls, orange carpet and dark wood tables. Very hip.
Well, I relived my childhood in Whistler last week – only this time I was feasting on black cod, crème brulee and sipping the best of BC wine in the Fifty Two 80 Bistro, which is tucked away in the Four Seasons Resort. The Bistro is also very 70’s – orange drapes, a round, open fireplace decorated in a mosaic of coloured tiles, low chairs, and orange carpet. Very hip, but now in a more chic-chic, retro way.
The service was incredible and the attentive waiter managed to make me feel as though I was getting special treatment. However, by the end of dinner I realized he was making everyone at our table feel as though they were the ones getting special treatment.
Overall, a hip place for an après-ski drink or a swanky dinner.
Whistler Trails
“How do I get to the village?” I asked the hotel Concierge.
“Just walk along the courtyard onto the Meadow Path, turn right at Fitzsimmons Trail, cross over the covered bridge, enter Rebagliati Park, around the BMX Track, through the Skate Park, and cross the street into the Town Centre.”
Cool! Whistler really is a walkers, hikers, riders, bike haven! I paused at a Whistler Trail map, which are all over the place, to check that I was heading in the right direction. I counted seven types of trails throughout the valley: Wide XC Trail, Crush Gravel Trail, Single Track Mountain Bike Trail, Nature/Walking Trail, Valley Trail, Paved Road and Golf Cart Trail.
It was just me and my shoes so I mainly stayed on the Walking Trail. The air hung somewhere between post-summer and pre-ski season and I was glad I brought a toque (wool hat).
At the Skate Park and BMX Track I got a chance to watch a few of the local Extreme athletes do their tricks. Needless to say, I was happy to just be watching.
Unfortunately, I didn’t have time to rent a bike to explore a bit more, but I highly recommend checking out the valley trails when you head to Whistler.
Sunday with Picasso & the Kids
Here is something cool. Yesterday I took the family to the Vancouver Art Gallery and it just happened to be supersunday, which meant Family Day. There were kids everywhere, so I didn't feel too bad when my son started to do somersaults in the Chinese Paper Cutting exhibition room.
Since he is only four, I also didn't feel too bad when he decided he had enough of the Picasso exhibit after a rushed five minute walk through the first floor. Fortunately, there was a mound of a million pennies on another floor that caught his attention enough to convince him to stay. We managed to extend our adventure by participating in one of the hands-on art projects for the kids – tracing our family history with a map of the world, shiny stars and felt pens. Supersundays are the third Sunday of every month and Picasso is showing until January 15, 2006.
Thanksgiving in Whistler
What to do when you hanker for a real thanksgiving turkey dinner and your kitchen is under construction? Leave town!
This year my husband, daughter and I joined another family for Thanksgiving in Whistler. We hopped in the car Saturday morning, and after only a few choruses of “are we there yet?” we arrived and checked into our condo – First Tracks at Creekside. I could get used to this kind of luxury! There was something for everyone – cozy chair by the fireplace for my husband, complete gourmet kitchen for me, and outdoor hot tub and pool for our 5-year old. All at a really great price!
After watching the death-defying acts of mountain bikers flying down the mountain at full speed, we took the gondola up to the top of Whistler Mountain for a bit of hiking/sightseeing. Once we got to the top, it was snowing like crazy. Hiking and sightseeing were replaced with snowball fights and cocoa. Fifteen minutes later the snow stopped and the sky turned blue and sunny – go figure.
Sunday morning was spent at the Whistler Farmer’s Market which is held weekly in the Upper Village from May - October. Great produce, baking, and crafts. We also happened upon the annual “Turkey Sale”. All manner of ski equipment, clothing, and accessories gathered together under one roof and marked down from 50-70% off. A bit of mayhem, but a definite ‘must do’ for skiers seeking good deals.
The best part of my day was cooking Thanksgiving dinner while the others played in the pool. I couldn’t ask for anything more - glass of wine in hand, fully equipped kitchen at my disposal – we are definitely making this our new Thanksgiving tradition.
Fish & Chips and Ferries
If you read my previous entry on Sechelt, you will know that I had to go back to finish my summer rituals. Well, the Thanksgiving dinner beckoned (as did my mom) and I just got back from another "stuffed" trip to the Sunshine Coast.
In fact, this weekend was a bit more relaxing than usual: I reserved my spot on the ferry. Instead of missing a sailing and hanging out in the car for an extra few hours, as per my normal ferry routine, I pretty much drove on just minutes before the ferry was ready to leave. Reservations can be made online at BC Ferries; they cost about $15 and I highly recommend them during peak travel dates - weekends, holidays, and summer.
However, if you do get caught without a reservation, I also recommend another dinner ritual that beckons - fish & chips. Once your car is parked in line, walk out of the Horseshoe Bay terminal (bring your ferry ticket with you), and head to Troll's Restaurant. They know the ferry schedule off by heart and will ensure you get your hot fries back to your car before loading begins.
While I enjoyed my reservation, I must admit I missed having the time to indulge in my traditional fish & chips.
Seasonal Brew
It's Autumn! You can always tell - the air is crisper and cooler, leaves start turning colour, and Steamworks Brewpub serves up their delicious Pumpkin Beer. Located in Vancouver's Gastown area - the most historic neighbourhood in Vancouver - Steamworks brews this unique beer the beginning of every Autumn. Lightly spiced and ripe with pumpkin flavour, it's a great way to ring in cool season in the city. If you like beer, head down for a pint or two. But don't wait too long, they only serve the brew till Halloween.
Chocolate Souvenirs from the Island
When I was on Vancouver Island last week, I couldn't help but indulge in my favourite chocolate treats. I know the Island is well known for grizzly bears, salmon fishing, spring golf, totem poles and whale watching - but I think chocolate has to be added to that list.
Whenever I visit Victoria, I refuse to leave without my pink-and-white checkered hand-wrapped Victoria Creams from Rogers Chocolate; Raspberry for my youngest son, Strawberry for my 11-year-old, Rum for me and just plain, which is anything but plain, Chocolate for my husband. I place them in the bottom of my travel bag (where they are hard to reach) and wait anxiously until I arrive home. Needless to say, I get swarmed by the family everytime.
I grew up eating Nanaimo bars, which are named after the City of Nanaimo, at Christmas time. When I was there last week I came face-to-face with an entire tray of these layered treats. Hold me back! Semi-sweet chocolate top, sugary yellow centre and graham crumb bottom. I walked by all the souvenir shops, with their spoons, pins, t-shirts and placemats, and snuck home with a tray full of Nanaimo bars.
Jumping Salmon
When visiting the Capilano Suspension Bridge and/or Grouse Mountain, make sure to stop at the Capilano Salmon Hatchery. It's right in between these two two attractions and it's free! It's a great way to learn about the lifecycle of Salmon. I spent an hour there with visitors from out of town last weekend and it was fun cheering on the Salmon at a special viewing area as they make their way up the river.
Autumn Brewmasters' Festival
I have a wee bit of a headache. Yep – that’s right, I went to the Autumn Brewmasters' Festival in Vancouver last night. It was my first time and I don’t think it will be my last. For $25 I received a four ounce plastic beer glass and three token chips to trade in for BC brew samples (I have one left I would now love to trade in for a Tylenol). I purchased more tokens at a price of 3 for $5.
As the night went on, the crowd got busier, the music got louder and the beer needed to be lighter. I started out with a good hearty chocolate and coffee infused Stout, by half-time I was drinking Amber ales, and at the end of the night I was looking for golden Lagers. The other thing that progressed throughout the evening was the length of the line-up for the washroom.
In total I tasted about 20 samples from Breweries all over BC; my top picks were from Crannog Ales, located in Sorrento, and Steamworks Brewing Company, located in Gastown.
The event sells-out each year, so if you are already planning on going next year purchase your tickets in advance.